Abstract
The global apparel industry, valued at $825 billion, is a major contributor to environmental degradation. It is also linked to conditions of modern slavery (Schulz, 2023). With increasing consumer awareness regarding these issues, many companies now position themselves as sustainable, and a market for ethical fashion has emerged, valued at $6.35 billion in 2019. Despite growing interest, there is limited research on how sustainability is defined and communicated in fashion. The concept itself is ambiguous, often resulting in inconsistent messaging and accusations of greenwashing. Communication is paradoxical: consumers demand both more and less information and brands are criticized for both over- and under-communicating their sustainability efforts. This research addresses How do sustainable fashion brands communicate their practices to guide consumers? Using practice theory, which conceptualizes change as emerging from shifts in materials, meanings, and competences, this study analyzes six sustainable brands: Patagonia, Tentree, Reformation, Everlane, Girlfriend Collective, and Franc. These brands were selected based on ethical ratings according to Good on You and to represent diversity in size. Data included brand messaging, advertisements, interviews, and social media content. Our analysis was iterative, combining grounded and theory-driven coding. Rather than promoting purchasing, the sustainable fashion brands we studied aim to educate consumers and build legitimacy for sustainable practices in the industry. They are engaged in a two-step process: grounding and amplifying. This contrasts with earlier critiques of greenwashing and shows how strategic communication can foster trust and shared understanding of sustainability in fashion. We end the paper with our theoretical and managerial contributions.